IN THE summer before Covid, Tom Chesshyre took to the train tracks of Spain to see the country through carriage windows on a series of clattering rides beyond the popular image of “holiday Spain” (although he stops off in Benidorm and Torremolinos too).
From hidden spots in Catalonia, through the plains of Aragon (stopping to see the trenches in which George Orwell served during the Spanish Civil War) and across the north coast to Ferrol and Santiago de Compostela, Chesshyre continues his journey via Madrid, the wilds of Extremadura, dusty mining towns, and the cathedrals and palaces of Valencia and Granada, finally reaching Seville, Andalusia’s beguiling (and hot) capital.
Along the way, he touches on Catalonian separatism, the rise of the far-right Vox party, integration of immigrants from North Africa, regional unemployment and the importance of foreign visitors to the country (tourism accounts for 11% of the GDP, in a normal year, compared to about 3% globally) – meeting many characters along the lines offering insights.
These tales, along with those of fellow passengers, conductors, stationmasters, hostal-owners and other locals, provide a background dialogue, voices from the tracks, if you like… but the real story is the journey as the trains clatter onwards to sleepy towns where tourists rarely venture along branch lines and narrow-gauge tracks.
Seeing Spain slowly rattle by, no hurry, no hotels booked is a joy – jump off and find out where the railway has taken you. Que sera sera (whatever will be, will be).
Partly because of fear of invasion along railway lines, Spain was late to trains: its first track opened in 1848 (eighteen years after the Manchester-Liverpool passenger service began). It has more than caught up of late, now with a high-speed network second to none in Europe covering more than 2,000 miles: great for those who want to be places in a hurry.
Yet on its slow lines, another Spain emerges of strong traditions and close-knit communities, so far removed from the mass tourism of the Costas. Hop on its slow trains and a whole new country awaits.
PRAISE FOR SLOW TRAINS AROUND SPAIN: A 3,000-MILE ADVENTURE ON 52 RIDES
‘In the spirit of Laurie Lee in As I Walked Out One Midsummer Morning and in the manner of Philip Larkin chronicling his slow southward journey in The Whitsun Weddings, Chesshyre takes us on a wondrously hypnotic meander across Spain. His attention to detail and unwillingness to be rushed, either as passenger or author, make this a highly relaxing and subtly addictive read.’
Glen Mutel, National Geographic Traveller
‘If you ever need convincing that it’s better to take the train than to fly, this is the book that makes a persuasive case. Follow Tom Chesshyre as he meanders through rural Spain on local and regional train services, stopping off here and there in small communities that are normally by-passed by tourists. A fine read.’
Nicky Gardner, hidden europe
‘Don’t expect a book about timetables and connections and station neighbourhoods, this highly readable, well-researched travelogue is about how train travel opens up the world; allowing you to be spontaneous, taking you to unexpected places… you’ll be entertained and inspired.’
Richard Hammond, Green Traveller
‘By turns humorous and sharply insightful, [Chesshyre] affectionately paints a vivid portrait of a deeply divided and contrasting country, bringing to life its characters and landscapes like few other travel writers can. Always curious, witty and intelligent, his writing style and subject matter are deeply rewarding… this is armchair travel at its satisfying best.’
Francisca Kellett, travel writer